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Thursday, 11/20/2008

Sewing Accuracy

We all know how disappointing it is to spend a lot of time sewing a garment and then it doesn't fit. It's really annoying to use a pattern once and everything is fine, then nothing seems to work the next time. Why does that happen? And why does another sewing pattern from the same company not work the way you expected?

When you have used a sewing pattern before with good results and the next time it creates a different fit, it is probably due to fabric selection. If a knit or stretch fabric was used the first time, you may have taken advantage of the give in the fabric without noticing it.

The traditional sloper is made with muslin. Some of you just starting out may not know what a sloper is. Basically, a sloper is a pattern from which other patterns are designed. It has minimal ease so it fits snugly. It is extremely useful for helping you determine your fitting problems. Muslin is used because it is economical and also a woven fabric. It gives you a true picture of how a garment will fit.

Here are a few tips to help improve your sewing results:

  • Press the pattern pieces and the fabric before sewing begins. Make sure all elements are laying flat. A wrinkle in the fabric may seem insignificant, but even an eighth of an inch will add a quarter of an inch across two pattern pieces. And the error will continue to build as more pieces with wrinkles are used.

  • Construction is the next area that can cause a problem with fit. Most home patterns for sewing are designed with a 5/8" seam allowance. A small deviation in the seam allowance will be magnified by the total number of seams. Always follow the sewing instructions. It's amazing how rapidly an 1/8" error can change the entire fit of a garment. Use seam guides for accurate seam allowances.

  • If a pattern fits, take the time to preserve it. One way is to back a pattern with light weight iron-on interfacing. Be sure to press the pattern and interfacing smooth before sewing with it again.

  • Take the time to read the directions and keys provided by the manufacturer. Changes are sometimes made and reading the pages first could eliminate sewing errors.