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Sewing

There are six main stitches you need to know when machine sewing. Each stitch has a particular function and once you know the rules you can determine how to use them in different fabrics and applications.

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Straight Stitch

Used for sewing woven fabrics together, it is the most basic and most important. It is also the foundation of all sewing, whether by hand or machine. In the case of hand-sewing, a single thread is drawn in a straight line through the front side of the fabric and then back through, thereby bonding two pieces of fabric together. A sewing machine achieves the same result by drawing a top thread through the fabric then looping it with the bobbin (or bottom) thread. The stitch length is graded by stitches-per-inch and fabric always determines this—the heavier and stronger the weave, the smaller the stitch length. The idea is that a shorter stitch will create a stronger bond and the seam should never be stronger than the fabric.

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Basting Stitch

Based on the straight stitch, this particular stitch is exactly the same except it is sewn in exceedingly long lengths. On your sewing machine it will be your longest stitch length. The stitch is used to temporarily bond two pieces together or to manipulate the fabric into gathers. A section of fabric can be ruffled by first sewing a basting stitch. For more security, two basting stitches can be sewn about a quarter of an inch apart. Tie off one end of the seam using the loose threads (or tails), then from the other end pull firmly on the top thread to gather the fabric. The gathers can be distributed evenly by hand and anchored by a single straight stitch.

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Zig-Zag Stitch

This one draws the thread back and forth in a “Z” direction. The stitch is primarily used for sewing knits because of its ability to stretch. Again, the fabric itself determines the stitch length, and in this case width as well.

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Blind Stitch

Although many machines are capable of sewing this stitch, it is always best presented when done by hand. The stitch is sewn from the backside of the fabric, in a straight or “whip” fashion and never puncturing through the front side of the project. The blind stitch is just that. From the front you can’t see any stitch at all. It’s perfect for hems and that’s why it’s also called the hem stitch.

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Topstitch

This one is essentially the straight stitch with a different application. Instead of being used to bind fabric together, it’s mostly used as a decoration. Topstitching is added for detail and interest and is rarely used for practical purposes. Just about the only time the stitch is used for function is on collars, cuffs or facings. In this case, it is used to anchor seam-allowances and to force the fabric to lay in a certain direction.

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Back Tack

Technically, this machine-sewing technique isn’t a stitch, but it is as important as the straight stitch. Every time a seam is started and every time a seam is ended, the back tack should be implemented. The back tack provides punctuation to the seams. By sewing forward, backward, and then forward again this stitch is created. The back tack should be used as knots would be when hand-sewing. It prevents seams from unraveling and ensures professional quality.